Adéntrate y descubre la historia y la cultura árabe e islámica.


sábado, 29 de diciembre de 2007

Mutabal Betinjan o Baba Ganuj. Puré de berenjenas o "vicioso y coqueto"

Este plato forma parte del grupo de los purés y se considera como un plato estrictamente de meeza (estimulante o entrante). Así pues, se ofrece tanto a la hora del almuerzo como a la hora de cenar, y casi nunca a la hora del desayuno. Está muy difundido en el mundo árabe y últimamente, tal como sucede con el falafel y el hommos, está rompiendo fronteras a nivel mundial. Este puré es conocido en todo el mundo con el nombre de muttabal betinjan. No obstante, en Siria y Palestina la gente lo conoce por el justo y adecuado nombre de baba ganuj (coqueto y vicioso), sin duda debido a su textura, muy ligera y bailarina, y por la insaciabilidad que causa entre los comensales.
Precisamente en estos dos últimos países, numerosas madres creían el poder que posee este plato para contagiar su melosidad. A menudo lo administraban a sus hijas creyendo que éstas adquiriría las mismas características de baba ganuj, esto es, que se convertirían en mimosas y viciosas, dos “virtudes” que revalorizan a la mujer árabe casadera y que enfervorizan al hombre árabe.
Salah Jamal cuenta una anécdota que ocurrió en su entorno familiar. Su tía, la esposa de su tío paterno, muy creyente y a la vez muy ingenua, transmitió su ilustración y su inquebrantable fe religiosa en su única hija. Por poner un ejemplo, le prohibió, entre otra tantas cosas, comer este puré, con la esperanza de que creciera serena, equilibrada y nada mimosa. Efectivamente, cuando la niña tenía quince años, aparentaba treinta, era tan serena como arisca, nunca abría la boca y rechazaba a cualquier chico que intentara acercarse a ella con palabras dulces. Su tía falleció y su tío volvió a casarse con una mujer originaria de Siria. Ésta de, ligeras convicciones religiosas y gran entusiasta de las supersticiones populares, creía ciegamente en el poder misterioso y casadero en el baba ganuj. Así pues, no dudó en atiborrar a sus seis hijas con este puré. Pronto se vio que las niñas iban creciendo con un evidente y exagerado grado de coquetería, que despertaba la lujuria en cualquier alma. Todas ellas se casaron antes de llegar a los quince años de edad. La alegría de la madre duró poco. A principios de los ochenta, en el mundo árabemusulmán se produjo una fuerte oleada de reislamización, que dejó en la cuneta a esas seis coquetas e irredentes mujeres; “lógicamente”, fueron divorciadas una tras otras. Y, por cierto, la hermanastra tampoco se casó, ni siquiera en esa época, sin duda la más propicia para las mujeres conservadoras. Se supone que se le pasó la edad. De ahí proviene, el comentario de las mujeres de su amplio círculo familiar “del baba ganuj, ni mucho ni poco” [Salah Jamal, Aroma árabe. Fotografías: portal google].

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No conocía esta historia sobre este plato, de hecho no sabía que significaba "coqueto y vicioso". Es muy curiosa y una buena historia para contar mientras disfrutas de una buena mesa con los amigos.
En mi blog he puesto un extracto de ella junto con la receta.

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